Diane Schuller, Your All Occasion Custom Photographer

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{These tips are provided as general interest plus as a service to my clients and the general public. Enjoy!}

Flowers are such a popular subject to photograph, even when we’re in the midst of winter and months away from spring — or maybe for that very reason. Since flowers are such a popular subject for photographing, whether you’re an amateur who simply loves flowers and uses a basic point-and-shoot or you have a DSLR or even an old film camera, I feel this is an ideal subject for experimentation or stretching your wings.

Notice how I’ve focused on the buds of this vibrant Amaryllis rather than the flamboyant blooms. Another thing I did with this image was to use strictly natural light, ensuring the light was streaming in from the side, providing a nice focus on the details of the folds of the buds. I never ever use the on-camera flash — for anything. On-camera flash can be okay, in a pinch, to use as fill if taking photos outside in the shade, but I still don’t like it even then. Most people naturally seem to want to take advantage of lots of streaming daylight. Again, I’ve gone against that by shooting in shutter-priority mode so that I could reduce the amount of light coming in. I wanted to have a more dramatic look and feel to these buds. That’s how I got this result which has an abstract feel to it as well.

Next time you’re taking photos of flowers, whether indoors or outside, I encourage you to consider focusing on something other than the ‘normal’ face-on blooms, play around with the light, and play around with your settings. That’s the beauty of digital cameras; we can experiment to our hearts content and delete the ones that don’t work yet keep the ones we like the most.

In the image below, I’ve done a few things to make this more original or artistic. Again, I used natural light but had my shutter speed adjusted to let in more light so that more of the veining was apparent on the flower. The other thing you can see I did was capture the back of the bloom instead of the face of it. There is so much pretty detail to the back. There is also emphasis on all those lovely curves. The final thing I did was accomplished in post processing: I added a light vintage hue to the entire image and then cropped it square. Again, the result is entirely different from the way most people would automatically tend to take a photo of a flower. Even if you don’t have post processing software, you can create a unique and artistic image simply by changing what you focus on and how you use the available light. Give it a try!

I have other photography tips in the archives and will do my best to include more posts in the near future on a wide range of tips and suggestions. To see the ones that are in the archives, simply use the “Categories” tab at the top menu bar, scroll to “Photography Tips” and click on that to bring up the list. For those in the Grande Prairie area, become a fan of my Facebook photography business page to learn about an upcoming photography workshop I will be conducting.

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Diane is a freelance photographer available for commercial, environmental – editorial, and portrait assignments. Visit her website to view her portfolio or to contact her.

Kelly and Victoria at Design Ties are beginning a concept called Rewind Wednesday. The idea is to spend more time enjoying summer (away from the computer) therefore replaying a post from the archives on this day. I’ve decided to participate with their inaugural Rewind Wednesday.

TAKING PICTURES OF YOUR DOG / PET (from April 7, 2009)

Taking pictures of your dog, cat, or other pets are often similar to taking photos of your children. As promised here are a few simple, yet basic, aspects to keep in mind when taking pictures of your family dog(s). If there is interest, in future I can provide information to address more advanced approaches. These six tips will form a good base to get you started taking better snapshots of your family pet.

1. Have an assistant, whenever possible. If you have a friend or family member you can put them to work in playing with the dog or pup or by acting as a distraction with a toy, for instance. Squeaky toys are good for getting dogs to perk their ears at attention and for directing which direction the dog faces.
2. Turn off the flash and turn the beep feature off on your camera. Take your photos in a brightly lit room or outdoors so the flash is not necessary. Many animals become leary of cameras when the beep goes off every time the shutter is released. You don’t want your pet worried about the camera — you want him/her relaxed.
3. Forget about posing! Attempting to pose a dog, especially with the dog looking straight at the camera, most times is so lifeless and lacks personality. The best photos are those where you capture your dog (or your kids) at play, concentrating or showing curiosity over something, or even relaxing after a long run or playtime. As mentioned, if you have some toys or treats with you, you can toss it out to get the dog moving or playing. When you forget about posing and simply allow your pet to be itself, not only will you capture personality but you’ll also find you enjoy these the most because the real essence of your dog/pet is captured.
4. Turn your camera’s setting to continuous mode. Whether you have a point-and-shoot, a DSLR or a 35mm film camera, you will have that capability. This allows the camera to take a continuous stream of photos while keeping the shutter pressed, hopefully so you don’t miss some unexpected shots especially if your pet is moving.
5. Take lots and lots of pictures! Don’t worry so much about perfection. Be more concerned about capturing special moments. If you have a digital camera, you have the luxury of taking all kinds of shots without having to pay for developing/processing. Simply delete the rejects after downloading them to your computer and hang on to the good ones (be sure to get them printed).
6. Get down! This one is key. When you get down to the pet’s level (again, this is important for photos of children too) and preferably the closer the better, your images will immediately improve. If you have a DSLR, you can get even better results by attaching your zoom lens. This will allow you to be further away (out of their face), less intimidating, and to still capture those close up shots. Ideally, you want to nearly (or fully) fill the frame with your subject. You don’t want your subject to be a blob or dot in the frame.

The dog’s face fills the frame, concentrating on his eyes. He’s not looking directly at the camera (distracted) and the camera is not in his face because a zoom lens was used. The only thing done to this was to sharpen it slightly after downloading to the computer.

It doesn’t matter that this dog is not facing the camera — the image tells a story: she is hanging back while the other two are off hunting (typical of this dog). Taken down at the dog’s level and she nearly fills the frame.

Here the dog is captured playing in the snow (with snow flying). It doesn’t matter that the other dog’s head snuck in — it shows curiosity. Again, the dog mostly fills the frame.

Here’s a shot taken after the dog had sufficient time to play and wear off energy. He’s keeping still yet his attention is elsewhere (a distraction) and has that ‘posed’ look.

PhoDOGraphy: How to Get Great Pictures of Your Dog

How to Take Great Pet Pictures: Recipes for Outstanding Results with Any Camera

Copyright © 2009 Diane Schuller. All Rights Reserved. It is illegal to copy any part of this post or the photos without the written permission of the author. You may link to this page from your blog or website.

Diane is an on-location lifestyle photographer (dogs, pets, families, children) serving Grande Prairie & Northern Alberta/BC. Visit Diane Schuller Photography.

The first time I pointed my camera at a stranger and clicked the shutter, I simultaneously began to perspire and a feeling of near-panic came over me. I wondered if the person would stomp over and smash my camera, or scream at me, or who-knows-what. Well none of those things happened and I’m now more comfortable when photographing strangers. I do suggest being prepared with what to say to them and armed with some model releases, if you intend on using those photos. I’ll share a few tips here for those of you who are feeling the same way I was that first time.

Before I get started, I think there is a distinct difference between taking shots of children and those of adults. If you’re going to be taking photos of children you really don’t want parents or their guardians looking askance thinking you’re some weirdo. If you’re going to take photos of children you don’t know, I highly recommend walking over and asking their parents (or guardian) before you do so. Above all, be honest. Let them know what you’re doing and why. Put them at ease right away — and smile. Smiles go a long way with strangers. Flatter the parent by saying their child really stood out “with her playful spirit”, “he’s so neatly dressed”, “those eyes are so beautiful” or whatever — but remember, be genuine. Also, if the parent knows you are trying to practice your photography skills capturing children at play, to photograph children in natural light, or maybe you’re working on a project photographing sibling interaction (or whatever it is), they are more likely to believe that your intentions are harmless.

The Approach: Although I like to keep my posts brief, this post has a variety of steps and considerations so let’s get to the meat of the matter. Here are the steps that work for me in approaching strangers.

• Try an opening line that flatters the person (or their child if it’s the child you wish to photograph). Follow that up with a reason for the photo. Be genuine and don’t make things up — and avoid gushing (it’s that old balance issue again). Something like this, “Excuse me (smiling), I’m sorry for staring but I’m drawn to the great lines in your face. I’m an amateur photographer working on a project photographing interesting people in Old Strathcona. I’d love to take your picture.” Keep your opening line(s) as short and to the point as possible. Here’s another example, “Excuse me (smiling), I’ve been watching how wonderfully you interact with your dog. I’m an amateur photographer practicing my skills on portraits of people and their pets. I’d be very grateful if you’d allow me to take a photo of you and your dog.”
• Promise to provide the stranger with a print from the photos you take. I don’t always blurt this out until they have either agreed or if they show they are hesitant, it’s usually a clincher. In this age of digital cameras and so many people being on email, I like to offer a print by email — that way it costs me nothing yet there is something in it for them. More on that below.
• Use the brief opportunity to practice your  networking and photo session skills. Talk to the person! Make them feel comfortable and perhaps ask a question or two, “I see from your T-shirt you’ve attended Edmonton’s Folk Music Festival. What was the best part of the festival for you? (or I might ask who their favourite performer was)” This shows your genuine interest in the person and gets them talking about themselves, which is something most people like to do. You get the idea. It’ll put you at ease too. And don’t stop at one photo; take advantage and get multiple shots from different angles.

Photos are Taken, Now What?

• Thank the person for their patience and agreeing to do this. If they ask to see the images, let them peek at your screen.
• Remind them that you’ll email the best one to them, as agreed upon.
• Now you need to pull out your standard model release. The one I use for strangers is really stripped down and basic. I also found this difficult to do the first time I pulled out my model release — talk about a case of nerves. But it’s all in how you introduce it I have found. Let them know this is a standard release so you can use the best images of them for your portfolio or to use in a gallery project (you never know!) and that you need their full name and address to make this a legal document. As you’re handing them the pen, remind them to print their email address carefully so their photo won’t get lost in cyberspace. I have found few people even bother to read the model release, a few do, and no one has ever refused me. Besides, what is the worst thing that can happen if they do refuse to sign it? The worst thing is that you can’t use their image in publications — no big deal, right?
• A note about model releases: if you are taking photos of children, you need the child’s name plus the name of the parent or legal guardian plus their signature. In the case of a model release for dogs/pets you need a brief description of the dog (Collie cross, German Shepherd, or whatever), the dog’s name, and then the name and signature of the owner.
• I always have business cards with me and this is one of those times when I hand one to the person (well usually two) saying, “This is who I am so you know I’m legitimate or if you wish to contact me for any reason.”
• Let them know you’re really pleased and end the ’session’ with a smile and move along.

Avoid This:

• Don’t use this opportunity to soft sell. Don’t let the person know you sell your photos and don’t hint that they could buy some extra prints for their mother, father, spouse, or best friend.
• The same principle applies about not trying to book them for a photo session. (you’ll see below a better way of doing this).
• Don’t procrastinate and hold off on sending the image to the stranger for a long time afterwards. Get it done as soon as possible — within a day or two.

Sending the Print:

• As soon as possible after the day of taking the image, send the best one to the person as agreed. There’s no reason to delay since it wasn’t a paid or lengthy photo session where you need to sort, post process and spend hours on preparation.
• I watermark these ones though I don’t make it huge or intrusive (like those I do here in my photo journal); I want the watermark quietly sitting in the corner so anyone seeing it knows who created the image.
• When you email the image, be sure to say something in your email. You could start with something like “Hi Alex, as promised here is a print from those photos you kindly allowed me to take the other day. It turned out well and I hope you like it. Thanks again so much — it was great chatting with you.” … or something like that — let your personality come out in the email but make it brief.
• This part is important: be sure you have an automated signature in your email and that your name, contact information, and website (or photoblog if you don’t have a website yet) are included. After all, this is the part where if they want to get in touch with you, or hire you, or tell their friends about your photography, they are reminded how easy it is to get in touch. You want the door open and the sign lit (so to speak).

So what if you don’t ever plan on using your photos of strangers in any publication, on your website/blog, in your portfolio, or in a project? Well, you could still take photos of strangers and not ask for their permission. I do this too. But those photos are pretty much just practice. In fact, if that’s all you really want to do and you maybe don’t want people knowing you are pointing your camera at them, have I got something to tell you about! Over at PhotoJojo (and no I don’t get any kickbacks) they have an amazing lens & adapter known as a Super-Secret Spy Lens intended specifically for taking photos of strangers. Head over and watch their brief video demonstrating a photographer using it to take photos of unsuspecting people.

Hopefully, I’ve remembered all the important tips that I use. If you have more tips to share or great opening lines, please include them in the comments. As you all know, I always respond directly to each person who leaves a comment so if you have a question instead, please let me know!

This article and photographs are Copyright © Diane M. Schuller. All Rights Reserved. It is illegal to copy or use any part of these contents without the express written permission of the author. You are welcome to link to this article but you may not copy or download any part thereof.

Diane is an on-location lifestyle photographer based in Grande Prairie serving northern Alberta/BC and Edmonton. Visit Diane Schuller Photography.

On Monday I booked my first wedding. I’m both excited and full of anxiety — but more excitement than anything. Up until now I have had a firm policy that I will not do weddings. I tell people, and also have that statement on my website, that I don’t do weddings and strongly recommend hiring a photographer who specializes in weddings. Well, as you can tell, I was convinced to make an exception this one time.

If you, or someone you know, is getting married I have a great DIY tip to pass along. In these times of a depressed economy and job losses, some people may not even be in a position to hire a photographer for the wedding. If this is the case, I have a fun idea to share. It also doesn’t cost the bride & groom a dollar.

On a photography forum that I visit, there was a discussion in the tips area and this one caught my eye. We all know how guests bring along their point-and-shoots to take their own photos and that’s where the story begins. If the wedding couple won’t be able to afford a photographer, be sure to let the guests know (include it in the invitations) to bring their digital cameras and take as many photos as they like. The couple will arrange to have a digital “download station” for guests to download their photos for everyone to see — and for the couple to keep afterward! It’s as easy as having a laptop with a card reader (that way guests still have the photos on their memory cards but the bride & groom have a copy). It’s also imperative to have someone knowledgeable on how to download photos and using the laptop to ‘man’ the download station for several hours.

Back to where I heard about this in the first place. The person making the suggestion pointed to this wedding photographer’s blog post. I see there is also a suggestion about using Flickr for sharing all the wedding photos.

In this way, everyone wins! The guests still have all their own photos but the bride & groom get a wide selection of images to choose from for their wedding day – with no cost for a photographer. The newlyweds also don’t have to chase down and keep reminding (over and over again) their guests to send them copies after the day of the wedding. Sure, there may not be professional quality images but you’d be surprised how many really terrific images there will be to choose from with a variety of amateur photographers taking pictures through the day. The important thing is to document the day in photos and to save a few dollars as they set out on their new life together as husband and wife.

PS: If you have any additional tips for DIY wedding photos, please leave them in the comments below for others to check out as well! Thanks — I have the greatest visitors!

Diane is an on-location lifestyle photographer based in Grande Prairie, serving northern Alberta + Edmonton and area. Visit Diane Schuller Photography.

Recently I visited and read posts at two different photography-based discussion groups. I ended up shaking my head in amazement as I read some of the posts in which individuals related experiences they have had with their first photo shoots. So why did I shake my head as I read these posts? What it boils down to is inexperience and lack of business knowledge. I can understand why professional photographers who have either been in the business a long time or have gone to a photography college look down upon those armed with a digital camera who set up shop and try to pass themselves off as professional. A professional in any area of expertise is qualified not necessarily by a college or university degree in the field but by experience, their solid knowledge of business practices, and a service-above-all attitude.

Based on some of these recent posts I’ve read and others I’ve heard about in the past, I thought I’d share a few tips on things to avoid if you or someone you know is about to embark upon setting up as a photographer. Realize that I too am a neophyte in terms of my photography career but I have decades of business experience under my photostrap. It’s that business experience that I rely upon to build my career in photography. The thing I know for certain is that photography is a service business — with bold emphasis on service.

Here then are some of the mistakes I see people making that hold them back or even sabotage their fledgling business as a photographer.

• Showing up for a photo session without sufficient memory cards plus back up batteries.
• Your website and/or blog doesn’t spell out how you conduct your business. If you take the time & effort to do so it avoids conflict and misunderstanding. You should have an area that is easily identifiable that states what your goal/philosophy is as a photographer; what the process is (before, during, and after the session); what you charge and what the client receives in return; and any other specifics they may need to know in advance. When you talk to your client at the time of booking ask if they have questions about  the session and let them know you’ll send them a copy of the details in writing (as a courtesy).
• Failing to get a deposit to hold the date. No explanation required, right?
• Not having a relationship developed with a professional printer.
• Never, ever, ever — is this clear — never ever set a specific end-time for the session. Allow a sufficient timeframe for your session and take whatever time is necessary to warm up the client(s), get the shots necessary, and the wind-down. You need a strategy before you show up. Don’t be checking your watch, don’t set a specific time and then that’s it — remember this is a SERVICE business and not a factory where you punch a clock. On your website (or blog) a good way to let the client know how you conduct the session is to let them know that each session is unique (because the people and circumstances are unique) and that it can take up to __X__ hours (personally, I find that it averages up to about 1-1/2 to 2 hours). You will learn from your initial sessions what an average session may take. But never put a specific to-the-minute cut-off time on a session as if you’re working on an assembly line in a unionized factory. They’ll never refer you to their friends/family and they’ll never have you back if you’re more concerned about quitting time than doing the best job you can.
• Not respecting your clients’ time. This is the other end of the previous point. If you tell the client your sessions are usually say up to 1-1/2 hours or so, don’t go overboard and spend 2-1/2 or 3 hours there. They have a life too and perhaps they have plans. Yes, if you need to spend a bit more time, say an additional 20 minutes or half hour over your stated average that’s not unreasonable — but be respectful of their time as well. There’s a fine balance and you’ll get your time-legs after you’ve done a few sessions. You should practice on friends & family first.
• Not doing your research BEFORE you begin taking on clients. I know it is easy to stumble upon an unexpected request before you’re ready — that happened to me too. The difference for me when that occurred, is that I have enough business background that I already knew certain things I needed to have at the ready by the time I showed up — so that first paid session ended up putting me in a scramble to get all the paperwork ready before I showed up.
• Be certain you have the important things in writing (some of that relates to what I mentioned above). A contract setting out the terms of the session, including payment and copyright are key.
• Do you know who your target market is? How will you market yourself? Do you know how to market yourself? Do you know the difference between marketing and advertising? Will it cost money and do you have the money or expertise for marketing? These are questions to which you should immediately be ready with a definitive answer.
• Once you begin taking on paying clients, this is no longer simply a hobby. A business is an entirely different animal. Educate yourself in all the business aspects and be prepared. Take a course or workshop in running a home-based or small business for instance. Read some books about how to start a photography or home-based business.
• Embarking upon paid work without developing a SOLID plan — so a business plan is a must. Thoroughly think it through. Create a plan, write it down, and follow it like any roadmap. To do anything less is setting yourself up for disappointment and a less-than-stellar reputation. {Reputation is what you need to develop in order to build your clientele. A photography business is all about building relationships.}
• Not knowing the legal aspects. Do you know what is legally required to conduct business in your municipality/state/province? Do you fully understand copyright? Do you need/have a separate business bank account? Do you have to declare your photography income on your income tax? Do you have insurance or do you need insurance for your business? If you don’t know the answers to these questions, you have some homework to do.
• Remember that a photography business is a combination of art and business — it’s not one or the other; it’s a marriage of the two.

I realize this post focused on what not to do, but it seems so many hobby photographers jump into the realm of being a paid photographer without thinking, planning, or being prepared. Avoid these things and you’re already taking a positive step. If you do the necessary research and planning, you may decide that you aren’t necessarily prepared to do what it takes to be a professional photographer. There is nothing wrong with that. There are many hobby photographers who do so their entire lives and receive great joy in doing so. Enjoy it; relish it. It’s important to give considerable, detailed thought and planning before jumping over that line from hobby to professional, whether you do it full time or part time.

TIP: One great tip for something you can do before starting up a photography business: Shadow a professional. Locate a professional photographer in your area who specializes in the same type of photography you are interested in pursuing (weddings, children, commercial, natural light or studio, for example) and offer your services as an assistant for a few photo shoots — at no fee. You’ll be their assistant, yet paying close attention watching & learning  how they conduct themselves, prepare for & run a session, handle the business end, and other great lessons.

Make yourself a pot of tea (or preferred refreshment), sit down with your thinking cap plus a pen and paper, and begin to develop a plan. That’s the first step towards success and avoiding drastic mistakes.

If you have any additional tips to share on what to avoid, please include them in your comments. We can all learn from your tips.

RESOURCES:
The Photographer’s Survival Guide: How to Build and Grow a Successful Business
The Business of Studio Photography: How to Start and Run a Successful Photography Business
Business and Legal Forms for Photographers (with CD-ROM)
Purple Cow: Transform Your Business by Being Remarkable

• Check with your local Chamber of Commerce for business start-up workshops.
• Join a professional photography association, attend the meetings, and become involved. It’s a great way to learn from the pros.
• Take an online course such as “The Business of Photography” or “Making Money with Your Photography” at BetterPhoto.com

Diane is a lifestyle photographer serving Grande Prairie & Northern Alberta. Visit Diane Schuller Photography.

Taking pictures of your dog, cat, or other pets are often similar to taking photos of your children. As promised here are a few simple, yet basic, aspects to keep in mind when taking pictures of your family dog(s). If there is interest, in future I can provide information to address more advanced approaches. These six tips will form a good base to get you started taking better snapshots of your family pet.

1. Have an assistant, whenever possible. If you have a friend or family member you can put them to work in playing with the dog or pup or by acting as a distraction with a toy, for instance. Squeaky toys are good for getting dogs to perk their ears at attention and for directing which direction the dog faces.
2. Turn off the flash and turn the beep feature off on your camera. Take your photos in a brightly lit room or outdoors so the flash is not necessary. Many animals become leary of cameras when the beep goes off every time the shutter is released. You don’t want your pet worried about the camera — you want him/her relaxed.
3. Forget about posing! Attempting to pose a dog, especially with the dog looking straight at the camera, most times is so lifeless and lacks personality. The best photos are those where you capture your dog (or your kids) at play, concentrating or showing curiosity over something, or even relaxing after a long run or playtime. As mentioned, if you have some toys or treats with you, you can toss it out to get the dog moving or playing. When you forget about posing and simply allow your pet to be itself, not only will you capture personality but you’ll also find you enjoy these the  most because the real essence of your dog/pet is captured.
4. Turn your camera’s setting to continuous mode. Whether you have a point-and-shoot, a DSLR or a 35mm film camera, you will have that capability. This allows the camera to take a continuous stream of photos while keeping the shutter pressed, hopefully so you don’t miss some unexpected shots especially if your pet is moving.
5. Take lots and lots of pictures! Don’t worry so much about perfection. Be more concerned about capturing special moments. If you have a digital camera, you have the luxury of taking all kinds of shots without having to pay for developing/processing. Simply delete the rejects after downloading them to your computer and hang on to the good ones (be sure to get them printed).
6. Get down! This one is key. When you get down to the pet’s level (again, this is important for photos of children too) and preferably the closer the better, your images will immediately improve. If you have a DSLR, you can get even better results by attaching your zoom lens. This will allow you to be further away (out of their face), less intimidating, and to still capture those close up shots. Ideally, you want to nearly (or fully) fill the frame with your subject. You don’t want your subject to be a blob or dot in the frame.

The dog’s face fills the frame, concentrating on his eyes. He’s not looking directly at the camera (distracted) and the camera is not in his face because a zoom lens was used. The only thing done to this was to sharpen it slightly after downloading to the computer.

It doesn’t matter that this dog is not facing the camera — the image tells a story: she is hanging back while the other two are off hunting (typical of this dog). Taken down at the dog’s level and she nearly fills the frame.

Here the dog is captured playing in the snow (with snow flying). It doesn’t matter that the other dog’s head snuck in — it shows curiosity. Again, the dog mostly fills the frame.

Here’s a shot taken after the dog had sufficient time to play and wear off energy. He’s keeping still yet his attention is elsewhere (a distraction) and has that ‘posed’ look.

PhoDOGraphy: How to Get Great Pictures of Your Dog

How to Take Great Pet Pictures: Recipes for Outstanding Results with Any Camera

Copyright © 2009 Diane Schuller. All Rights Reserved. It is illegal to copy any part of this post or the photos without the written permission of the author. You may link to this page from your blog or website.

Diane is an on-location dog, pet & livestock photographer serving Grande Prairie & Northern Alberta/BC. Visit Diane Schuller Photography.

Many of you know that I write a weekly environment column for a lifestyle newspaper here in Alberta. Each week I write about simple everyday things we can do to reduce our environmental footprint. About a year ago I mentioned that thanks to Junie Moon I learned another cool tip regarding envelopes. I’m going to share that one here.

I do save envelopes and use them a second time to write down my grocery lists or for taking notes beside the phone, but I learned a couple of great tips about re-using commercial envelopes. You know those security envelopes we receive with coloured (often blue, sometimes green) abstract patterns on the inside? I learned that by turning them inside-out they can be re-used! And, if you look at the mosaic above you’ll see how unique the finished product looks.

HOW-TO:  Gently open up the seams of the envelope. Some envelopes will loosen easily with a letter opener or knife but others may need some coaxing with a bit of steam first to soften the glue. Turn the envelope inside out and re-glue the seams. To use it for mailing, simply affix a self-adhesive address label to write out the address. You can do the same with all the business reply envelopes you receive in the mail.

See, it’s easy and fun being green! Perhaps you may be inspired to write someone a letter or send them a couple photos. Do you have any tips for re-using envelopes or re-purposing envelopes?